"Positano bites deep. It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone"
-John Steinbeck
It IS a dream.
Positano is a vision. Flocks of orange and yellow striped lounge chairs. Narrow streets lined with boutiques and cafes. A picturesque beach that looks up to the winding stairs and the vibrant colors of piled up buildings. It’s a painting. Or a Brigitte Bardot fantasy. Except it’s real life… if only for a few days.
The journey
Coming from Capri, we took the ferry back to Sorrento and a car service to Positano. Note – you can take the ferry directly to Positano but it doesn’t come as often and you’re stuck lugging your bags up the winding steps. And it’s a lot of steps. I was happy to trade that in for a ferry time that worked around my schedule and an Italian driver who named different types of pasta our entire ride from Sorrento to Positano. [In strong Italian accent] – “There’s bucatini…and then there’s orecchiette, and ah rigatoni…” I didn’t realize that naming types of pasta could take up forty-five minutes, but I loved every second of it.
Stay
Le Sirenuse – There’s opulence. There’s elegance. And then there’s Le Sirenuse. If you have the opportunity, ask for room 44. The bed looks out to a private terrace with an uninterrupted view of the sea and the bright geographic pattern of the Church of Santa Maria. Because nothing says “I woke up like this” more than a sunrise view from bed. (Except Beyonce. She woke up like that.)
The pool at Le Sirenuse
Il San Pietro – A few minutes outside the center of Positano, this is the home to the most incredible lobster pasta I’ve ever eaten. It’s also a gorgeous member of the Relais and Chateau family. While we didn’t stay here, we did get an exclusive invite to their private beach club and spent the most perfect day there.
Eat
Il San Pietro– Even if you don’t have beach club access, you have to make the trip for the lobster pasta. It’s everything.
Chez Black– Find my Italian love Antonio and he’ll hook you up with a heart-shaped pizza topped with Italian staples like prosciutto and burrata. This fun and casual restaurant is located right on the beach, amongst all the action.
Da Vincenzo – I realize I continue to reference adorable Italian men, but this man can’t be beat. Everyday is your birthday at Da Vincenzo because he’s ringing bells and singing Happy Birthday to everyone. And if that doesn’t do it for you, the food is delizioso. Highlights include the local fish, homemade pasta with zucchini, basil, and cherry tomato, spicy pasta with baby squid, and the mussels. For dessert – the tiramisu with a side of the most mouthwatering mini wild strawberries dipped in lemon and sugar. Dessert number two – right outside the restaurant is a gelato stand on the side of the road serving gelato in mini cones. MINI cones! I mean…you’ll try to walk away because you just inhaled pasta and fish and sugar coated mini strawberries but the cart (and the mini cones) just draws you in –it’s what sweet Italian dreams are made of.
La Sponda – When you’re dressed a little swanky and feeling a little fancy, this restaurant at Le Sirenuse is top-notch. Michelin starred La Sponda is an elegant space lined with delicate green vines and a postcard worthy Positano view. Aside from the incredible tasting menu (my recommendation – get the smaller tasting menu option and add the blue lobster with burrata), my favorite part was that this entire experience was extravagant without being pretentious. Our waiter, Guisseppe (yet another Italian man of my dreams) nailed the fancy yet fun vibe as we kicked off the night with a champagne toast and closed with a kitchen tour/dance party.
Sip
Champagne Bar and Grill – Get there early to snag an end seat for a flawless sunset view. A breathtaking sunset, champagne, oysters, and a DJ – I guarantee you will come here more than once.
Franco’s – After dinner, head to this al fresco terrace for the perfect nightcap.
Shop
Get lost in the streets and wander into boutique after boutique for everything from hand made leather shoes to Pagani sunglasses.
Emporio Sirenuse – Opposite the entrance to Le Sirenuse, go here for Italian threads and accessories. The swimsuits, cover ups, and hats are especially fabulous.
Explore
Boating – If you’re staying at Le Sirenuse, sign up for an excursion aboard their wooden vessel, the Sant’Antonio. Lay back, drink a glass of Prosecco, and experience Positano views from a different angle – look up!
Marina Grande Beach – The main beach in Positano is a lively cosmopolitan playground. When you decide to venture out with the public, this is the place to see and be seen.
Play
Music on the Rocks/La Rada – Start with an after dinner cocktail at the classy piano bar on the top floor. End with a not so classy disco dance party underneath the DJ booth at Music on the Rocks.
No Regrets But
We didn’t have time to check out these two spots, but based on trusted sources, they make this list. And they’re on my bucket list for next time!
Da Adolfo – Hop on a 5 minute boat ride to a lunch spot chock full of fresh seafood
La Conca Del Sogno – You’ll have to hire your own boat or water taxi for this 20 minute ride to Nerrano.
Positano, are you fo real?
